The Brut 1998 from Arlaux has a soft, pale golden glow and a moderate but plentiful, foaming bead. The nose is just loaded with character; the fruit is rich and almost tropical or certainly a touch exotic, with very subtle notes of lychee and peach, alongside an appealing cashew nut twist. On the palate, pure pleasure; immediately creamy and rich, and yet cut through with incisive, firm, citrussy acidity. This is matched by a beautifully balanced texture, bright mousse, and armfuls of fruit. This is drinking delightfully, and although I am sure it would be good in the cellar for a while I would find it very hard to resist now. Very fine indeed.