2016 Jaboulet Crozes Hermitage Thalabert 750ml
The classically styled 2016 Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert boasts savory scents of black olive and leather. Medium to full-bodied, it's plummy and rich, creamy and ripe but savory and earthy, not jammy at all, with a lingering, velvety-textured finish. It drinks well now, but it should continue to evolve and drink well through 2035.
The charming Caroline Frey was all smiles during my visit to the Jaboulet tasting room on the main square in Tain l'Hermitage. Her Burgundy vintage was complete and very promising. And even though severe hail damage at ChÃ¢teau La Lagune in Bordeaux resulted in no grapes being harvested there this year, it meant she could focus all her energy on the 2018s in the RhÃ´ne. We started off with the 2016s. "Hopefully, we will still have years like this," she said. "It's a vintage with more length. I like it!" There's no doubt the 2016s are successful here, but in many instances the 2017s look even better. "I'm always a little afraid of hot vintages," she said. "But I find a balance in this one." The proof is in the pudding: Some of the 2017s are the best I've ever tasted at this address.