2017 Von Winning Ungeheuer Riesling GG 750ml
From the village of Forst, Ungeheuer was historically one of the most famous and expensive sites for Riesling in the world. A bottle of Ungeheuer Riesling was used to toast the official opening of the Suez Canal in 1869. The site combines limestone from an ancient coral reef, volcanic basalt and sandstone soils, making a wine with power, structure and dizzying detail.
There are few parts of Germany warmer than Pfalz, formerly a tobacco-growing zone where the almond trees flower, and this generous yet delicate Riesling sums up its appeal. The colour is mid-to full-gold with enticing scents of juicy peach and juicy oranges too, of sweet talc, of white chocolate and a little lurking spice. On the palate it is round, warm, tender and full yet freshened by a sense of incipient stoniness in its textures as well as by the giving acidity which underscores the juiciness of its fruits. It's so delicious now this will be hard to stow away in the cellar for long, but there will be rewards if you can manage it. Drink 2019-2025.